Highlights and trends from the Las Vegas Couture jewellery show - Telegraph.co.uk |
| Highlights and trends from the Las Vegas Couture jewellery show - Telegraph.co.uk Posted: 06 Jun 2019 12:00 AM PDT  Viva, Las Vegas: the capital of all things flash became even glitzier last week as the annual Couture Show rolled into town. More than 200 leading jewellers and up-and-coming designers showcased their latest creations to buyers, editors and influencers from across the world; offering a preview of what you can expect to add to your jewellery collection next season. Trend-wise, designers are feeling the love with hearts and flowers absolutely everywhere. These traditional motifs are made modern with chunky silhouettes and bold colours. New York jewellery showroom Muse debuted its 'Have a Heart' collection of dozens of different heart-shaped charms by a cast of contemporary designers, while both Foundrae and Ana Katarina showed pieces that represent the eight different types of love in Greek mythology.  There were gobstopper-sized heart hardstones at Retrouvai, beautifully enamelled flowers by Holly Dyment, carved tourmaline blooms by Brooke Gregson, and hundreds more. Symbolism and storytelling are still a key focus for many: those precious coins and discs that can be combined and personalised aren't going anywhere.  When it comes to colour, the brighter the better, whether through iridescent flashes of opal, bold pops of turquoise and lapis, or neon enamel: Melissa Kaye's rave-ready update to her classic diamond pieces, and Bea Bongiasca's gemstone-topped fluoro jewels were both rapturously received. In a show bursting with creativity and incredible craftsmanship, these were my highlights. VramHailing from a family of Lebanese jewellers, Los Angeles-based Vram Minassian spent 30 years ghost-designing for prestigious houses and creating, in his words, "vanilla engagement rings" for private clients before launching a brand to showcase his own creative vision in 2016.  Having won the award for best debut at last year's show, his latest ready-to-wear collection sees dinosaur bone-like formations of brushed gold across chandelier and hoop earrings, bracelets and pendants.  One-of-a-kind pieces set rare coloured gemstones - minty green tourmalines, violet or pomegranate-coloured sapphires - alongside an irregular pavé of equally deliciously hued stones sourced over decades. Precisely engineered but with an abstract, organic feel, his work is coveted by connoisseurs and won't remain under-the-radar for long. Silvia Furmanovich Antique-shop finds don't get much luckier than the book of 19th-century woven Japanese silks discovered by Brazilian designer Silvia Furmanovich. The beautifully bound tome contained 250 swatches of fabrics for obi (kimono sashes), and inspired a new collection of one-of-a-kind pieces which reflect their rich colours and intricate motifs. Patterns taken from the swatches are realised in miniature painting and marquetry carried out by artisans in India and Brazil respectively.  These patterned panels are paired with complementing colour gemstones in artistic earrings and brooches, while other pieces feature artefacts from the same period, from portions of painted lacquer to snuff boxes and sliding screen handles. A selection of marquetry clutch bags feature fragments of vintage obi silks themselves - a creation that saw Furmanovich win the Innovation category at the show's Design Awards. Polly WalesThree years ago, British jeweller Polly Wales relocated her entire business, including all her craftspeople, from the Cotswolds to LA. The move proved fruitful: she has since been creating evermore precious, one-of-a-kind pieces to showcase her creativity and the possibilities in her workshop, while retaining her signature 'cast not set' aesthetic.  Her latest collection, Stardust, is a case in point. A showstopping pair of earrings, created with the help of a 3D wax-printing device Wales describes as "a bit like a gluegun", loop fantastically up, around and beneath the lobes, some parts wire-thin, others fatter and encrusted with coloured diamonds and gemstones. It takes serious skill to make jewels that seem this gloriously haphazard. Nak ArmstrongBaguette-cut stones were another Couture trend, with designers including Anita Ko, Stephen Webster and Nikos Koulis (who scooped the Best in Gold award for his Feelings collection) using them liberally across their newest pieces.  Austin-based jeweller Nak Armstrong managed to move away from their usual geometric orderliness to create something more organic, with a capsule collection called Loom. The range sees baguette-cut Ethiopian opals and tourmalines in various soft shades of green trimming satiny rose gold. Each stone different in size and shape, the combination allowed Armstrong to achieve the fluidity of a fringe of fabric. He admits to being "fascinated" with the results - and he's not alone. Fernando JorgeHaving scooped the Editors' Choice award last year for Surround, and the Best Diamonds over 20k award in 2017 for Brilliant, Fernando Jorge's booth is a Couture must-visit - and draws crowds to match.  This year, he extended his existing lines, with vibrant new Surround pieces in chrysoberyl, Paraiba tourmaline, lapis lazuli and labradorite, and introduced High Brilliant, featuring bigger, brighter, more, well, brilliant diamonds.  A new collection, Aerial, was nominated for the Best in Gold award, and provides a piece of the Fernando Jorge magic at a more accessible price point. Diamonds orbit wire-thin hoops of gold that stack, conjoin and merge like bubbles: it may lack the rich colour for which the designer is known, but it is full of his distinctive character. LitoGreek designer Lito creates the type of jewellery that cries out to be worn against tanned skin and taken out too late. Hers is a sophisticated take on summer jewellery; preciously crafted and far from throwaway.  Her scarab beetles were the star of her Couture show: chunky doublets of labradorite, moonstone or opal topped with carved rock crystal, all the better to magnify their iridescent effect.  A family of six bugs line up at the nape of the neck, strung from a repurposed vintage gold biker chain, while a single scarab provides a focal point of polished-gold chandelier earrings. The Il Paradiso collection also features a range of vintage carved coral fish adorned with diamonds - ready for their second act in life. VhernierOne of the bigger houses to show at Couture, Vhernier took the opportunity to celebrate 21 years of its Calla collection, introducing a bracelet to the range for the first time.  Available in polished or matte rose gold (more of a warm yellow than the more prevalent pink), or in a black titanium finished with the brand's 'eyeliner' mixed pavé, they're a beguiling new addition to the Vhernier family. The brand also extended its Freccia collection, stringing chunky rounded triangles into necklaces and earrings. Some are set with a sculpted, rock-crystal topped mother-of-pearl, some are finished with eyeliner pavé, but I loved the plain, high-shine gold version most: Wilma Flintstone given a Vegas makeover, in the best possible way.  Noor FaresHaving recently welcomed her first baby, London-based Lebanese jeweller Noor Fares took a break from this year's fair, but her aesthetic stamp was all over her latest creations.  A selection of crystal pendants - something the designer has wanted to launch for a long time - set the tone for her new Padma collection, inspired by the sacred lotus flower. Pastel-hued chalcedony is carved into the lotus flower motif and adorned with a moonstone, while precisely cut moon quartz has a mirror-like shine.  Fares won the award for Best Coloured Gemstones under 20k for a kaleidoscopic pendant which features a vibrant hexagonal amethyst set in sculpted amethyst and surrounded by her signature rainbow pavé. It is part of a range of one-of-a-kind pieces which start as unusual step-cut gemstones and end up as beautifully realised jewels which marry boho sensibilities with fine craftsmanship in Fares' inimitable style. Sign up for the Telegraph Luxury newsletter for your weekly dose of exquisite taste and expert opinion. |
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